S/V Lynx and our double circumnavigation
Circumnavigating the planet is not just about getting in a
boat and going around the world! There
are many other things you have to consider when planning a voyage around planet
Earth. You must take into account the prevailing winds, political
disturbances, piracy, bad weather, Visa limitations, and, most recently, a pandemic! We also want to see a lot of places! Circumnavigating is not the goal, that is
actually just a byproduct of where we want to go and the way the winds
circulate around the planet to get us there.
So, let’s start with that… the wind.
The Prevailing Winds:
These refer to a latitude on Earth’s surface where the winds
predominantly blow from a particular direction.
Because they generally do so, when sailing, if we stick to a particular
latitude, we can expect to find winds blowing in one direction, somewhat consistently.
For sailing, the two prevailing winds which are the most helpful
in a circumnavigation are the trade winds (yellow and brown below) and the westerlies (blue).
Westerlies (see blue arrows, above):
These are winds that tend to blow from west to east (taking your
boat east). The westerlies are found between 35
and 65 degrees of latitude. The problem with the westerlies
is that they are pretty far up or down on the globe, and therefore, in the colder
regions. The second issue is that these
winds often blow fairly strongly, creating some very rough conditions and large
waves. This happens even more in the
southern latitudes where there is less land, and the winds can, therefore, pick
up more speed and cause larger waves.
The westerlies are particularly powerful in an area called the roaring
40s, which typically blow between the 40 and 50 latitudes. For the most part, we intend to stay out of the westerlies. The exception is if we decide to do the Ring of Fire route, which will take us across the Aleutian Islands to Alaska, going east from Russia (more on that below).
The Trade Winds (see yellow and brown arrows, above):
The trade winds blow from east to west. These steady winds are found in the tropics, near the
equator. They typically blow from the
northeast in the northern hemisphere and southeast when you are down in the
southern hemisphere, both angling toward the equator. The trade winds are predominantly gentle and
therefore, cause less wave height.
Unfortunately, in the hot months of summer, water evaporates, and Earth’s
spin starts the clouds turning. They keep
adding water and spinning faster, and that leads to cyclones, typhoons, and
hurricanes (which are all basically the same thing, just in different parts of
the world). So, for sailors, what this
means is that in the winter months, you can sail west in gentle steady breezes pushing
you along from behind. They take you west, around the world.
However, come summer, you need to get out of those latitudes to avoid
the big spinning behemoth storms.
This is the reason why most cruisers sail west around the
world. Most of the time, we will do the same thing. More on that in a bit.
OK, so now we know one thing, in most cases, we are sailing
west and sticking to the trade winds. Now,
let us look at where we want to go and see things on planet Earth.
Where do we want go?
So, we are head west… but to where? We plan to visit over 100 countries or
provinces; however, for simplicity sake let’s break this down to just major
regions. The red pins mark regions we absolutely plan to
visit while yellow ones are only possible destinations:
So, what will make us decide which of the yellow pin destinations are added to the route? Well, that brings us to some other deciding factors. Two of these are political unrest and piracy. Either of these may exclude us from visiting an area. This could mean just giving it a wide birth or, in some cases, it could change our entire route around the planet! Let’s take a look at both situations.
Politics and Piracy:
piracy. We do not want to run afoul of civil unrest or piracy, both are dangerous to our crew's health. That means, we may need to avoid countries experiencing these political situations.
I left the worst for last, the Red Sea (see image, right). This is the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea,
through the Suez Canal. When there is
civil unrest (like the current civil war in Yemen) or piracy (from Somalia, on
the opposite coast on the Gulf of Aden, we cannot risk passing through there to
get to the Red Sea. That is a real
shame, since the Red Sea is one of the most beautiful places to dive in the
world, and it would take us right into the Mediterranean Sea, one of our ‘must
see’ destinations.
If the Red Sea is a problem, we might have to sail across the Indian ocean to
Africa, turn south, then go around South Africa and then cross the Atlantic to
Brazil. That adds more than 8,000 nautical
miles of open ocean to the trip! We hope that things calm down before we have to make that choice.
If we don't want to risk the Red Sea or the rough waters of the Cape of Good Hope, there is a third option. We can avoid the Indian ocean altogether. In that case, we would head north from the South Pacific and take the Ring of Fire. That route would take us clockwise around the Pacific
Ocean, going all the way up to the northern roaring 40s where we turn east. We then use the westerlies to take us across
the Aleutian Islands to Alaska, then turn south and head down the west coast of
Canada and the USA.
These three possible routes are
the main reason for those possible (yellow pin) destinations on our map. However, since we are planning two
circumnavigations of Earth, so have the option of choosing choose two of these three, depending on the circumnavigation year and what is happening in the world at that time. Which two routes?
Only time will tell as political situations and piracy change over the
years to come.
Now that we know the major possible routes, what else affects our voyage? The answer is bad weather.
Bad Weather Avoidance
This has to do with two factors, safety of our crew and boat insurance restrictions. Basically, it is a simple concept, we must stay out of the areas of the world during periods when hurricanes, typhoons, and cyclones tend to form. We want to do this for safety first and because our boat insurance will not cover us if we are there during those times. That limits how long we can stay in certain places. Below is a map of the world with the basic time periods where we must avoid major weather phenomenon.
So, what else affects our route? Well, some places only let you stay for a limited time. Let’s look at that next.
Visa Limitations
OK, so now that we know possible routes and weather
limitations, what about Visa Limitations?
Somecountries only let foreign nationalities stay for specific amounts of time. For example, French Polynesia only lets people stay for 3 months. Australia limits you to six months and, worst of all, by far, is the Schengen grouping of countries. This means mostly the European Union, but there are some add on countries (see list in image right).
Basically, the Schengen rules are as follows, you cannot spend
more that 90 days out of every 180 rolling days in all of the Schengen Countries (combined). That means, whenever you leave one of them for a non-Schengen country, the border officials look
back through your passport at the last 180 days and see if you have spent more
than 90 days in the Schengen countries. If
you have, you are fined and you may even be barred from ever returning! Yikes!
This makes sailing around Europe a royal pain in the arse and
even dangerous, at times. The danger comes from these bastards forcing you to leave at the wrong time. For example, you might have
to cross the Bay of Biscay at the wrong time of year, without time to wait out
a storm, or you will be fined and possibly barred from Europe. It is insane.
The only saving grace is the UK. They are not part of the Schengen. If they were, I’d despair at visiting Europe
by yacht. The UK allows you to stay up
to six months and none of that time is counted against the Schengen 90 days. So, what you must do
to visit Northern or Central Europe by boat is spend a lot of time in the UK. You might even need to wait out
winter there, rather than cross the Bay of Biscay at the wrong
time.
Now, down in the Med (Southern Europe), you have the same issue. Fortunately, there are still a few (very few)
countries where you can get out of the Schengen. Right
now, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Boznia, and Turkey are your only havens… and
Croatia has recently asked to enter the Schengen, so that refuge will soon go away.
Turkey is the only large cruising area of these so, while in the med, expect to hang out in Turkey for at
least three months out of every six. These ridiculous Schengen shenanigans are the only way to sail in Europe due to the
incredibly stupid European union Schengen country rules. I fart in their general direction!
And now, the pandemic.
The Pandemic
Covid 19 has messed up travel, big time. Everyone knows that. What we do not know is how long it will
continue to affect it, which countries will be stay closed, or have ridiculously long
quarantine requirements (even if they let you come to their shores). There is no real way to predict what will happen in the next few years. Right now, I am glad it is still two years
before we plan to start our circumnavigation. Even when we do, we plan to spend the first year on the
east coast of the USA. That gives the
world three years from now to get their borders open. We can only hope. Our entire route and timing may have to
change it things don’t get back to some semblance of normal by that time.The Route around the world:
So, with all of these factors forcing our route to certain
directions of travel, routes, bad weather timing, and limits on how long
we can stay, it is a minefield to plan a circumnavigation. However, we have done just that, anyway. Below is one of our projected routes (we have several). It also takes into account all of the Visa
limitations and the damned Schengen rules.
These images show our odd path to circumnavigate the planet. Most of the time we are headed west, but near the beginning, we go east, to Europe, before heading out for our full trip around planet Earth. We choose to do this for a few reasons, not the least of which we just wanted to see Europe early on.
The Route:
Year 1:
(Red route) We start in the Caribbean and sail up the east coast of the US to do a full refit of the boat. Then we head north and take the Erie Canal into the Great Lakes. Once we reach Chicago, we head down the Mississippi River to the Tennessee River, then back to the Mississippi River to the Tombigbee and out to New Orleans. We cut across to Florida, then stop in Tampa before heading to the Florida Keys and back around to Fort Lauderdale for a minor second refit (now that we know what else we want). With our shakedown cruise and refits now complete, we are ready for some major ocean crossings!
(Navy Blue route) From Florida, we head out to the Bahamas waiting for the proper time to cross the
Atlantic. When it is time, we head for Bermuda and then to the Azores. We spend a month there, seeing the islands, before heading to the top of Spain. We go around the Bay of Biscay, seeing the Brittney Coast of France, then cross over to England, then to Ireland and up the Irish Sea to N. Ireland, then Scotland, back to England, then Wales where we end the year in Cardiff.
(Yellow route) After winter, we return to the boat and head out in Spring, this time going around the west shore of Ireland and up to N. Ireland, then we across and take the Caledonian canal right through the heart of Scotland, passing through the Angle Staircase and then through Lock Ness! On the other side, we head north to the Shetland Islands and reach the northern most point of the UK. From there, we cross to Norway and then head north for the Arctic Circle. Once we reach the Troll Fjord, we will turn around and head south again, following all the way around to Oslo. Then we head south to the west shore of Sweden and on down to Copenhagen, Denmark. From there, we take the Kiel canal through Germany to the Wadden Sea and over to the Netherlands. We cross the English channel to Ipswich and then head for London. After that, we come back down the River Thames and store the boat for the winter.
Year 4:
(Sandstone route) From the cliffs of Dover, we cross the English Channel to France and then head up to Brussels, then Amsterdam in the Netherlands. We start up the Rhine River (a slow slog up current) until we reach the Rhine Valley. Then the going gets really tough as we go up the gorge against 8 to 9 knots of current. One that is managed, we work out way through the rest of Germany and take the Rhine/Main canal to the Danube, now going with the current. Then we head into Austria, followed by Hungary, Serbia, and Romania. We end up in the Black Sea and go through the Bosphorus, in in Istanbul, Turkey and go down that west coast to Greece. We go through some of the Greek Isles and then through the Corinth Canal. From there, we head north to Albania and up to Venice, Italy. Then we head south and go to Croatia and Montenegro. From there, we head west and sail around the boot of Italy, and then head up the Italian west coast to Rome. We leave Italy from Pisa, and head for Monaco. Then we go to the French Rivera, stopping at places like Nice, Cannes, and Marseille. From there, we cross to Barcelona, Spain, then on to the Balearic Islands. Finally, we leave the med and go to the Canary Islands, then cross around December to the southern Caribbean.(Purple route) Continuing west, we stop at the British Indian Ocean Territories (some atolls). From there, we sail further west to the Seychelles. Once there we sail west to the shores of central eastern Africa. Then we go southeast to Madagascar, then down to South Africa for the difficult weather region around the Cape of Good Hope. From there, we head across the Atlantic, stopping at St. Helena and Ascension Island before heading further west to Brazil and then to French Guiana.
(Fuchsia route) This time, we head for the Cook Islands, then on to Niue, and up Tonga, headed bottom to top. We then turn west and go to Wallis and Fortuna, before turning south and going back to Fiji, where we do a completely different route to all new locations. Once we are ready to depart, we head north for the Tuvalu Atolls, then on to the Kiribati Atolls.
(Orange route) Now it is time for the true Ring of Fire route. From the Kiribati Atolls, we head north to the Marshall Islands. From there, we turn west again, toward Micronesia. Once we pass through that nation, we reach Guam, then turn north again, following a string of volcanic islands (part of the (Ring of Fire). We sail northwest, to Okinawa, then north to Japan. When we leave that nation, we sail north to the edge of Russia, before turning, northeast toward the Aleutian Islands, another part of the Ring of Fire. We follow these along the Bering Sea until we reach Alaska. Then we follow the shore around until we head south into British Columbia. Once we reach Seattle, we sail south on the west shore of the continental US to Los Angeles, and then down to Baja Mexico and on to Costa Rica. Finally, we go through the Panama Canal (the opposite way this time) and head into the Caribbean Sea. We sail northeast to Jamaica.